Egypt—where the Nile snakes its way placidly along the verdant
banks bringing life to an otherwise barren land; where smog and dust hang
hazily over the grand buildings of Cairo; where you can reach out a hand and
touch history and explore the places you’ve only read about before—it’s over,
and I’m trying to accept that.
Oh, it’s not completely disappointing to be home. I’m an American,
and a rather spoiled one at that, but the adventure and intrigue of an ancient
culture is a little hard to let go. Not to mention saying goodbye to the most
intelligent, funny, and inspiring group of people I may have ever had the
privilege of spending ten days with.
As promised, I shall try to give you bits and pieces about the trip,
though I make no promise on whether it shall become an unwanted inundation. So,
as our guide would say, Yalla Beena! Let’s go!
Day 1:Pyramids, Sphinx,
and the Egyptian Museum
The very first thing we did was visit the most iconic Egyptian
site ever: the pyramids on the Giza Plateau. I had prepared myself to be
underwhelmed. I half expected them to not be so impressive alongside modern
skyscrapers, but I was delighted to be awed by the majestic structures. Something
that is important to understand is that no one seems to know anything for
sure about the ancient findings in Egypt. There are many things that are
generally accepted to be fact, but an incredible amount of information is just
guesswork. I found this alternately intriguing and annoying. One thing I feel we
can confidently confirm is that the pyramids were not constructed by aliens.
The long line to enter the Great Pyramid moved at a decent speed,
and we soon stepped inside a rustic tunnel that led us further into the heart
of the pyramid. As we moved forward, we begin meeting people coming out who
looked a bit hot and bedraggled. What could be ahead of us to leave one in this
state? Our questions were soon answered.
The comfortable tunnel we had been enjoying narrowed down to a
passage where you had to bend at the waist and climb up a ramp akin to what you
would put on a chicken house. The space wasn’t too confining for one person,
but there was a steady stream of people coming back down the ramp, and it was
far from comfortable for two to pass.

Finally, we emerged into the Grand Gallery of the pyramid. Here,
the roof soars away many feet above your head. Short of Google, I have no way
to tell you how high, but it is impressive. However, you are now faced with
another ramp to climb, though at least you can stand up straight for this one. At
the top of that ramp, there is a short tunnel that you have the choice of
duck-walking through or crawling, and at the far end you find yourself at last
in the King’s Chamber.
I hope you don’t find this disappointing, but there’s really not
much to see in the King’s Chamber other than a large stone box that is said to
be the sarcophagus of Pharaoh Khufu. For me, though, it wasn’t so much what to
see as it was the fact that I was inside a pyramid. It was a crazy “Wow” moment
that I felt like I wasn’t appreciating as much as I should at the time as I was
still puffing around like a demented hippo from the climb up. That quickly
became normal—the frantic feeling I should be soaking up more than I had the
capacity to hold in the moment (maybe also the puffing). I wished for more eyes
and a better memory more than once.
The trip back down the ramps was much better than going up.
Although the guards stationed along the route kept yelling at people to move
and go. I couldn’t quite understand the logic, because it was impossible to
move any faster than the person ahead of you. Another tourist muttered to me
something about this being “just like a man.” Eventually we were back at the
section where you had to climb bent over. We knew from observation on the way
up that going backward seemed to work better, so that’s what we did. It was
great. I backed down as quickly as I could with little regard to who I was
running into. Because my back was to them, there was no guilt or awkward eye
contact. I plowed ahead unceremoniously, and eventually exited the confines of
the stone walls and stood in the open once more under the big blue sky.
We walked over to the second tallest pyramid on the plateau and
our guide gave us a small speech about it, then we headed toward the Sphinx. Before
seeing the Sphinx, we were given another speech about a mortuary temple that is
also on the premises. For me, the Sphinx was neat to see because it’s something
you see in pictures and I can now say I’ve seen it, but it was smaller than I
thought it would be and I’m completely unsatisfied with information about it.
I will apologize now to all my friends who are foodies. You would
have loved trying the different kinds of foods we encountered, but I have no
eloquent words for food. We did eat, but I’m afraid you will find few details
on that part of the trip here. Any food-related trivia that appears you can
probably thank some other observant Egypt traveler for.
In the afternoon we visited the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Our
guide escorted us inside and we followed her about to all the main attractions—the
Narmer palette which depicts the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt and is
one of the earliest examples of Hieroglyphics, the screaming mummy of a young
prince who, along with his mother, helped plot the murder of his father, and
treasures from the tomb of Yuya and Tuya, a noble couple. Of course, we were
whisked along much too quickly for my liking.

One of the high points of the visit to the museum was the room containing
treasures from the tomb of Tut. I don’t think I’m usually too given to fits of
annoyance and anger, but I have to admit I was tested a few times while in
Egypt, and this was one of those times. I have been of the understanding my
whole life that museums are places to be taken slowly, where you soak up
information and ask questions and read every placard. Not here. The room where
Tut’s things were located was jammed with people and some random guide kept
yelling at everyone to “Hurry! Hurry! Move! Move! Go!” It made me honestly feel
quite stubborn, like I wanted to dig my heels in and not give an inch. You
should be pleased to know I eventually exited without making a scene.
But it was shortly after this that our guide gave us 30 minutes to
explore on our own and then meet again by the exit. This was a moment of pure
panic. I had no idea where to start. The rooms stretched out on every side, I
was completely turned around and had no idea where the exit was, and there was
absolutely no way to see everything I wanted to see. We girls all stuck
together and Jane did a great job at navigating. There were a lot of crates
sitting about waiting to be shipped to the Grand Egyptian Museum, but there
were still a lot of things to see. I loved the miniature carvings of everyday
life, the toys, the tools used for building and surveying, mummified bread, the
scribe’s room, and a few ancient wigs.
Back at the Eileen Hotel we relaxed a bit (this was day one, where
I still thought I might be able to keep up with journaling), then headed out to
look for food. I know some of you saw my status where I said the Egyptian
driving was terrible. I would like to revise that statement. Egyptian driving
is extremely skilled, just a different breed than what we have in the States.
There are lines on the road, but they don’t really mean anything as a four-lane
road can easily become six lanes. The constant honking is not in annoyance,
just a mode of communication letting others know you are there. Add to that the
jumble of cars, taxis, horse drawn carts, motorcycles, and busses all moving at
different speeds, and it’s like an obstacle course. To cross the road, you
simply strike out toward the middle, dodging vehicles and waiting in between
lanes for a car to pass before moving on. I am not brave of heart, and these
crossings always terrified me, so I did my level best to always cross with some
other more confident person.

As it happened, our first day in Egypt was also the first day of
the month-long Muslim celebration of Ramadan. During Ramadan, the sincere
believers fast from dawn to sunset. After the age of fifteen, you are not
allowed to eat, drink, smoke, or chew gum during the fast. You are also
expected to do more praying and giving. It was very interesting to observe this,
as about 90% of Egypt is Muslim. There were many lights and foil streamers
decorating the city as well.
We spent a fair amount of time on the balcony of our hotel just
watching the hustle and bustle below. From there, you could see rows of tables
set up in the street and loaded with people and food, and the instant the
sunset prayer call was finished there was an instantaneous digging in. A couple
of guides were sure to inform us that Ramadan now was good, but when it came in
the summer it was more difficult. That was certainly not hard to believe!
Day 2: Saqqara
Necropolis, Serapeum, Dahshur
I haven’t mentioned it yet, but the weather was absolutely
beautiful the entire trip. In the mornings you might desire a jacket, but it soon
warmed up to pretty much perfect.
Our first stop on Day 2 was at the Saqqara Necropolis. This area
is filled with burial places: pyramids, tombs, and mastabas. There are also
temples and other structures that served some religious purpose. This is where
you will find what is considered the first pyramid in ancient Egypt, although
it isn’t a true pyramid, but rather a step pyramid belonging to an innovative
king named Djoser.

Here, too, we went down into a tomb that was highly decorated.
Please note whenever I mention entering a tomb, you can be assured that the
earlier mentioned “chicken ramps” play a part, as well as generally a few sets
of stairs somewhere. Part of the interior of this tomb was made of alabaster,
and when a light was shone on it, you could see the figure of a king. In
another part of the complex, I was delighted by the art. Everything I had read
about ancient Egyptian art praised its intricate designs, but I always felt a bit
dubious because the pictures only looked moderate to me. To my delight, I
discovered that in real life the carvings were, indeed, detailed and talented! In
this area there were a lot of depictions of fish and butchering cows. At least,
those were the pieces that caught my attention.
After leaving the necropolis, we ventured to the Serapeum. The
Serapeum of Saqqara was, to quote Google, “a burial place for Apis bulls,
sacred animals of the god Ptah.” Basically, the Serapeum is a huge underground
catacomb full of tombs for large beasts. I have to say this was one of my
favorite structures. I’m not sure what it was that I loved—perhaps the elegant
arches (though I’m not sure how many were original to the construction?) and spaciousness.
It was easy to imagine flickering candles in the niches along the walls. One sarcophagus
had been partly finished, then left in the middle of a passageway for some unknown
reason. Why did the workmen abandon it? What was the story of its half-finished
presence? These questions with no certain answers are, for me, part of the
charm of ancient Egypt.

Next we traveled only a small distance to Dahshur. This is the
place of a few more pyramids. Here we ventured into the Red Pyramid. This was a
better experience than the Great Pyramid because it was much less crowded.
There were maybe ten or so other visitors while we were inside. The one negative
was the stench, which some believe to be a result of bat droppings. The Red
Pyramid is considered the first true pyramid “in the Whoooole World,” to quote
our guide, although you don’t quite get the effect without the appropriate hand
motions. We then headed over to the Bent Pyramid where a few of us opted out of
climbing inside and just waited in the beautiful weather for the others to
emerge.

We picked up lunch and ate in the tour van on the way back to
Cairo. The tour company, by the way, was called The Magic Carpet. We did have
many interesting moments wafting about in the Carpet vans. That being said, if
you ever get the chance to visit Egypt, I’d highly recommend them. They did a
great job of getting us in and out of places and making sure we stayed with the
schedule.
Upon our arrival back in Cairo, we visited the Museum of Egyptian
Civilization. As before (and as at later dates) our guide gave us the highlights,
then turned us loose for a time. This museum had one of my favorite displays—the
hall of mummies. I’ve been fascinated with mummies for years, and now here I
was in the midst of 22 of the most famous mummies in the world! They were
presented in a very elegant and respectful manner. The color schemes were navy
and gold, and the halls were quiet and lit with a very ambient glow. Pretty
much every chamber housed both the mummy and the royal coffin in which it had
been found. Here we found the mummy of the murdered king I mentioned earlier,
along with a mummy that had suffered from polio, as well as the mummy of the Pharaoh
who may have been in power at the time of the Exodus. A couple intriguing
things was catching a glimpse of the toe-prints that were still visible and the
different hair styles that had survived amazingly well.
The other part of the museum was not terribly large, but there was
still a lot to see in the limited amount of time we had (30 minutes again, by
the way). One such artifact was a tent made of leather and used for body
purification rituals about 3,000 years ago. It was in stunning shape with
brilliant colors. Another thing I really enjoyed was a small model of what
looked like stairs going up one side and down the other of a rooftop. The
placard said this was an ancient clock and you could tell time by which steps
were in shadow and which were in sunlight. Also available for viewing was the
statue of Akhenaton, the heretic king of ancient times. He is one of my
favorite historical figures of Egypt, just because he completely bucked the
system and did his own thing.
Back at Eileen Hotel there was nothing to do but wait for the van
to pick us up again later and take us to the train station, so we struck out en
masse across the city looking for food stuff, which was fun in its own right—not
just because people watching is always fun, but also because I got a kick out
of watching people in our group delight in new foods.
The van arrived to pick us up and head for the train station at
about 7:00 if I recollect correctly. Unfortunately, the train station is fairly
new and the roads are not well-marked to reach it, so our driver bumbled about
unsuccessfully for a time, trying this route and that. He stopped three times
to ask for directions, and at one point performed a U-turn on a moderately busy
road. The last guy he asked was on a motorcycle and led him to the correct turn.
The time was tight enough that alternatives for “if we miss it” were being
discussed, but the touring company representative raced us through security and
we marched down the platform at the double, all the way to the very last car of
the train, #13, if you happen to be superstitious.

We made it with about 4 minutes to spare till departure time. We flung
bags and baggage into our sleeping compartments, then congregated in the
hallway to watch the world go by. The train ride was something I looked forward
to quite a bit, and it did not disappoint. I delighted in the strange
experiences and tried briefly to figure out how Agatha Christie’s Murder on
the Orient Express could have happened in a similar setting. No worries, I
wasn’t planning a murder myself.
The room Kari and I shared was 11/12 and was about in the middle
of the car. It wasn’t long until the porter came to helpfully prepare our room
for supper. I didn’t much like eating in the room because I couldn’t see the scenery
slipping by outside although it was already dark. Jeanie came by after a while
and informed us we did have a connecting door to the next room which neither of
us had noticed, so we ended up opening that and conversing with the next-door
neighbors for a bit, which was also a little funny because you couldn’t necessarily
always see who you were talking to. After supper most of us went six cars
forward to the lounge car, called a Club Car in this case. We sat about and chatted
and looked out the windows, then at the urging of the porter headed back to our
rooms. He seemed concerned that we were still up as he planned to serve us
breakfast at 4:30. So to bed we went, sponge baths in the sink and all. Let me
just make a note here that I had no trouble going to sleep the whole trip, but
sleeping on the train was amazing because of the lulling qualities.
Day 3: Valley of
the Kings, Hatshepsut’s Temple, Deir el-Medina, Temple d’Amon
Breakfast came as promised about 4:30. I struggled with eating,
especially since the meal included three different types of bread and a bag of
chips. We disembarked at 6:00 at Luxor. A van met us and ferried us to the
Nefertiti Hotel. All of our luggage was left in the lobby there. Some of us
went up on the rooftop to survey the lay of the land, and I was so glad we did!
It was a beautiful sight, with the Nile meandering by, hot air balloons aloft,
the gentle light of morning, and an ancient temple just to the left of us a
bit. I’m not sure if I caught on at the moment, but the hill we saw on the west
bank is where Hatshepsut’s Temple is located. Just behind the hill is the Valley
of the Kings.

At 7:00 we loaded back up and headed out to the Valley of the
Kings. This was yet another highlight for me, as I’ve been a fan of The Golden
Goblet ever since 5th grade or so. There were no khefts in the
Valley, though, just lots of tourists.
We were privileged to enter 5 tombs. The tomb of Tutankhamun and the
tomb of Seti I (both of which cost extra) are the only names I can give you
without consulting maps and more intelligent people. Tut’s tomb is small, but
super crowded. It came back to me with a vengeance how much I hate having to
push and shove my way forward to view. Interestingly, Tut’s mummy is the only
one left in the Valley. All the others have been moved. One feature that
surprised me was a brilliantly painted wall featuring a number of baboons.
The tomb of Seti I is considered one of the most beautiful tombs,
as well as one of the largest. This is because tombs were worked on as long as
the owner was alive, so the longer they lived, the larger the tomb. This tomb
was my favorite by far. There was one section where no carving was done, but
you could see the drawings they had made, intending to add decoration. Below I
have included a little map to show you what the route down into the tomb looks
like, as well as a picture of the beautiful blue color used on the tomb
ceiling.


Lurking about in these tombs are guys that try to be
oh-so-helpful. They are eager to point out special features, take pictures, or
give you directions—all for a tip, of course. I saw one of these men following
a woman as she fled from a tomb, flapping her arms wildly in his direction and barraging
him with heated words, something down the line that she refused to pay. He
pattered along after her, calmly insistent that she must. I felt sorry for her
because terms and conditions of these types of arrangements were a little
difficult to catch on to.
We also ran into a little French lady that was trying to ask us
about our coverings. Of course, she had never heard of Mennonites, but as we
struggled to explain, another woman overheard us. “Mennonites?” she said, “I’m
one, too!” Now there was nothing evident in her appearance to label her as a
Mennonite, and I’m afraid the poor little French woman was left even more
confused by the explanation that we don’t all look alike.
After leaving the Valley of the Kings, we headed to Hatshepsut’s
Temple. I’m not sure if you’re familiar with Hatshepsut, but she was a Queen
who illegitimately took over the throne and ruled as Pharaoh. I think I caused
Jeanie a bit of a shock when I said I admired her tenacity to get what she
wanted. But do let me be clear here: I believe also that she was very
self-serving and definitely not a good role model. Her temple was one I was
looking forward to seeing, and I must admit I was disappointed just a little. I
think it is one of the more beautiful and elegant temples—almost modern in its
simplicity—but close up it is just a little… dull? There’s not much to see that
makes it stand out. From afar I still think it is stunning, particularly lit up
at night.

After the temple we headed to Deir el-Medina. This was a village
of the finest artisans who worked on the tombs in the valley of the kings. We
were told several times that no one knew where the kings’ tombs were except
these workers, but I had some trouble believing that. For some reason it seemed
unrealistic. I mean, everyone would have known of the existence of this
village. Were they not allowed visitors? Did no one follow them to see where
they went?

At the same site were a couple of tombs of the artisans that we
were allowed to enter. They are considered to have some of the finest art of
ancient Egypt inside. They were definitely smaller than the tombs of the kings,
but they were very beautifully done. A couple of scenes that caught our eye was
that of the god Anubis doing chest compressions and another of the god Ra
depicted as a murderous rabbit. OK, so I know that’s not really what it shows,
but where’s the fun in taking everything as it is meant to be?

![Ra killing Apep, Egypt,1275 BC [1240x1161] : r/ArtefactPorn](data:image/jpeg;base64,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)
There was also a smallish temple to be toured at this site, but
there was little to make it stand out, so I shall skip directly to a more
interesting temple—the Temple d’Amon (Medinet Habou).
Now, I’m not promising I haven’t gotten some of these temples
mixed up, but here’s what I think I remember. Number one, I’d like you to take
a look at that massive doorway. There was once a huge door that blocked that
entrance. Inside, you can still see where the door would have been set. Something
that made this location interesting is the fact that the wonderfully talented designers
made some serious mistakes here. The first was in the case of the door. The
hinges landed in the middle of the carving of a god, so you can see where they
had to plaster it over and re-carve it. The carvings are super deep, too,
perhaps in an effort to keep them from being defaced like so many of Hatshepsut’s
carvings.
A second mistake occurs inside the temple. There is a window
platform that was meant for the royal couple to stand at and observe ceremonies
in the courtyard. However, there was apparently some poor planning, and the
pillars along that side of the court had to be redesigned and spaced
differently in order to not block the view from the window. I really like this
because it’s a break from the Egyptians’ love of symmetry and it makes them
more human, somehow.

This temple was also used as a refuge by Coptic Christians, and
there are gouges in the floor that they made to tie up livestock or prisoners,
I’m not sure which because I thought this guide said prisoners but a later
guide showed us similar gouges and said they were for livestock, so who knows.
There were the ever-present lurkers here as well. I just wanted to
wander about and enjoy things in a decidedly introverted way, but it gets a
little difficult when there’s always someone at your elbow hoping you’ll give
them a tip. I was sorely tempted to start tipping them just to leave me alone,
but I wasn’t convinced that would even work so I cut my self-guided tour short
and went to wait by the exit with a few of the others.
I think the only other place we stopped before heading back to the
hotel was at these two random statues sitting stoically in the middle of
nowhere. I’m sure some other person could give you better information about
them, but I have none. Please enjoy them just as they are.

Back at the hotel I tried to take a nap which proved a mite difficult
with the cheerful guy calling, “Room service!” at the door and popping in with
a bottle of water, or the maintenance man poking his head in to fix our hot
water heater. Which, make no mistake, I was glad he did, but it did make
napping a bit of a challenge.
We had heard that at 5:00 the Luxor Museum would be open, so with
hearts full of hope, we girls set out to walk there. I was the only one with
the capability of maps on my phone, so I was in the lead. The walk would have
been fine except for the ever-present taxi drivers of the horse carriages who
kept insisting that we take a ride. This was a lot different from what I
remember in Zimbabwe. There, if you declined, they soon left you alone, but not
these guys! They would follow you and keep trying to talk to you and sometimes
there would be two or three of them all at once. This isn’t to count the random
other people who kept trying to talk to us and be of help and ask where we were
from.
By the time we made it down to the museum, I was completely
finished. And wouldn’t you know it? The museum was closed. Deciding to make
lemonade from the lemons, we wandered down to the edge of the Nile. It was a bit
quieter there, and we discovered more of our party had also ended up there. I
was very glad to see them at that point. While the others chatted and enjoyed
the sunset, I took a moment to sit by myself and decompress, getting over being so upset about
the harassment from the taxis.

It also disturbed me that it made me so upset. I was thankful
Jeanie explained it later—we feel vulnerable and helpless, and there’s nothing
we can say or do to make them go away, so our anger is rooted in fear. That
made perfect sense to me, not sure why I hadn’t figured it out sooner.
At any rate, we eventually walked back towards the hotel,
detouring to meet Heath’s for supper. After supper we walked back to the hotel,
taking a shortcut through the souk, or market, that is right beside the Nefertiti.
We girls all ended up on the rooftop enjoying the view. No picture can do it
true justice, but maybe you can imagine it.

And so ends Day 3. I’m going to stop here for now. I think this is
the longest part of my report finished. I’m hoping I’m halfway through, at
least. But I need a break, and I reckon you do, too, if you’ve survived reading
this long. I'm not sure why some of my format is doing weird things; I've tried to fix it and can't manage to make it do what I want, so there's that. Stay tuned for Part II.
Until next time, take care.